PLEASE NOTE: PLEASE NOTE: We only have a couple of these left, we won't have more until next year, and the price will be going up when we get them. Don't wait: buy it now or pay more later.
Rickenbacker cases have always come in two styles: cool or useful. The vintage cases of silver tolex and black leather were unmistakable in their appearance -- but their open interior made them all but worthless for protecting your valuable guitar. The new molded cases offer better protection -- but the plastic shell is flat-out ugly.
You don't have to choose anymore. We're proud to offer the ultimate case for your 400- or 600-series Rickenbacker: vintage appearance with modern protection. You get the same appointments as the vintage case: silver tolex, leather endcaps and handle, white piping, nickel hardware. The inside is lined with a blue plush lining reminiscent of the vintage case (but without the smell). You get the same front gear pocket. But best of all -- and this is what makes the case -- the padding is form-fitted to your guitar. This is no glorified rattle box or token wrapping: this is custom-cut, form-fitted foam that holds your guitar so it does not move. Upper bout, waist, lower bout; the padding hugs it everywhere. There's even a long pad under the neck to support it all the way from the body to the headstock.
Think it won't fit your guitar? Check out the pictures: those are guitars from the 50s, 60s, 70s, and 80s.
Why put your guitar in just any case? Why settle for something you don't want? There's a better case out there -- and that case is right here. Buy it.
Ultimate case for Rickenbacker 425, 450, 460, 625, 660, etc.
We have tested this case with all manner of full-scale cresting wave guitars from several decades of production; they all fit. However, it can be a bit tight at first. You might try this technique:
Put the case on a stable surface (like the floor). Instead of putting the treble side all the way into the cavity (resting on the bottom), put it in with the top of the padding about halfway up the side of the guitar. Then, push back and down on the upper bout with the heel of your hand (you'll have to push fairly hard). This will get the bass side into the cavity. At that point, push the entire guitar down flat. This may sound complicated, but you only have to do it once or twice. After you get the guitar in, the padding will conform to the guitar and subsequent insertions get much easier. After you do this a few times, the guitar should go in with only minimal pressure (put the treble side in all the way and push back and down with your thumbs about 6" apart on the upper bout). This is exactly what you want, and this is how it was designed. If the guitar slipped right in initially, the padding would soon be loose enough that the guitar would move around. That defeats the purpose of having a true form-fitted case. And so, you have to go through this ritual of breaking the case in at the beginning.
Trust us; it's worth it.